Building a spray etching machine, enabling the lab to fabricate double-sided pcbs. Focus on minimizing: machine area, energy consumption, volume of hazardous materials. In the end, etching pcb's should be fully automated.

• Capacity: 2x 160x100mm (2 Eurocard PCBs) double sided
• Etching Fluid Volume: 750ml (Sodium Persulfate)
• Heating Element: Resistor-Wire embedded into silicone (90-135W)
• VCC: 12-14V
• Controller: Atmega88
• Temperature Sensor: Dallas DS18S20 embedded into silicone

Silicone bottom element with built in resistor wire and 4 triangle shaped baffles to reduce the volume to 750ml and built-in thermal sensor.

• created out of wood
• use clay (sulfur free) to cover holes and edges
• Nylon string to hold heater element in place above the mold
• Use wood to create tube-bearing holder-pockets
• drill a hole into the wood to place the sensor element

The Heating-Element for the picoJET was the biggest challenge of the whole project. The relatively small volume of etching fluid (750ml) cannot be heated by conventional tube heaters (like aquarium-heaters). Inspired by some commercial products of silicone based heating-mats, further research led to the conclusion, that no ready-to-buy product could satisfy the requirements either.

This led to a completely new design, creating a complete silicone bottom element, integrating the following features into one solid silicone part:

• Heater
• Temperature sensor
• Volume reduction baffles
• Mechanical stabilization of Jet-Tube bearings

<math> Q=m * c * DeltaK </math>

• m = 750ml ~ 0.75kg
• c = 4187J(Kg/K)
• DeltaK = 20 (25°C → 45°C)

<x 14> 0.75 * 4187 * 20 = 62805J = 62805Ws </x>

<x 14> {62805Ws}/{75W} \approx 837s \approx 14 Minutes </x>

• Diameter: 0.8mm
• Length: 1.32-1.35m @0.975ohm/m
• Estimated max. power: 90-135W

Calculations showed, that the heating wire should have a length of about 1.35m. The tricky part was to find a shape that would transfer the heat in the most efficient way possible. Therefore, the heating wire needed to be laid out like an X in order to transfer heat only to areas, where etching fluid actually is above and not to waste energy by heating silicone (area under the baffles). Additionally, both areas - directly underneath the Jet-Tube's intake - should receive more heat, so that fast flowing fluid in this particular area would receive an extra energy boost.

sva@muccc came up with the perfect solution for this riddle and made a sketch on paper which was converted to svg later on. This model works only for the defined parameters, if you've chosen to go for other settings you may have to recalculate and come up with another shape.

Dallas 18S20

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The Jet-Tubes are the key component in this design and act as a combined pumping/distribution system. Each tube is powered by its own motor at the top and slowly ramped up to about 2500 rpm. At the bottom of the Jet-Tube is an impeller, that presses the etching fluid into the tube, centrifugal forces push the fluid to the side and upwards whilst pressing the fluid through 0.6mm holes in a designated distribution pattern directly onto the pcb.

Optimized distribution pattern, triple helix, 120° spread, 2mm vertical shift. jomat@MuCCC came up with a nifty little piece of postscript code, that generates the pattern automagically. Download and print the pdf file, if you just want to use the pattern or play around in the postscript if you think you can enhance it. Someone may want to alter the pdf to print two patterns on one page in the pdf to save paper.

Trying to find available things, which could be used as clutches to connect the motor to the tube was unsuccessful. Eventually the clutches were made on a lathe to achieve perfect radial runout accuracy. Otherwise this could result in loud vibrations at 2500rpm. If you don't have a lathe, look up your next hackerspace or fablab, they might have one and will gladly help you out, if you ask nicely and tell them a bit about what you're trying to build.

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Drilling acryl with 0.6mm is a little more demanding, if you're not careful, you may lose a number of drill-bits (expensive) in the process or the resulting holes become very ugly.

• Use the smallest tool available (high radial runout accuracy).
• Try to use precision collet chucks instead of general purpose jaw chucks.
• Look for quality drill-bits (lower quality breaks very fast and overall costs will be higher)

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